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Posts Tagged ‘Cheese Making’

Anyone know of any?  A friend of ours was asking, and I wasn’t sure what to recommend.

There are plenty of books devoted to the home cheesemaker.  But we’re looking for a book that covers home dairy animals – selection, breeding, milking, management, birthing, the whole shebang.  A section on home cheesemaking would be a plus.

A lot of our books are too generic, I think Storey’s Guide to Raising Dairy Goats is probably the closest.  But I want something one step up.

If I was more experienced, I think I might write the book. 😉  Maybe one day …

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Valencay-style goat cheese

Friday night we split open the first of HB’s experimental Valencay-style cheese.  Is it not beautiful?

According to artisinalcheese.com,

Valençay is one of the classic raw milk mold-ripened chèvres from the Loire Valley in the central western region of France. This pasteurized version of young goat’s milk cheese is distinctly identified by its pyramid form which is blanketed by an ash mold. After ripening in the caves … the texture is smooth and dense with a mild, lemony, and altogether clean flavor. A versatile pairing partner for most dry white wines, we especially recommend that you pair Valençay with Sauvignon Blancs.

Creamy and very mild, and startling white on the inside and outside, with a small layer of vegetable ash in between.  We’re trying to determine when the pyramid is at its best.  We’re letting another pyramid age another week, to be opened this coming weekend and tested.

Overall, very promising and simply gorgeous.  Well received by our market friends and taste testers as well.  You can read more about its making at HB’s blog.

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Nubian Dairy Goat from Dairy Goat Journal

Last week the CBS Early Morning Show had a segment on goat cheese featuring Bobby Flay and Rainbeau Ridge goat cheese.

You can view the segment here.

Part of the segment focuses on the versatility of goat cheese.  The ladies at Rainbeau Ridge have produced a cookbook with this focus, entitled Over the Rainbeau.  The book also shares its focuses on sustainable living.  I’ve yet to get my hands on a copy, but it is on my wishlist!

We had a friend over the other weekend who made a cheesecake using our plain chevre.  It was AMAZING, topped with fresh strawberries.  Don’t just use your cheese with crackers.  Experiment.  I’m keeping a photo log of every recipe we use that includes our cheese.  It’s fun, and tasty, to experiment this way!

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The goat kids are growing like weeds.  I weighed them the other night, they average around 30 pounds, just over one month old.  Fred and Bogart (Memphis’ kids) are the biggest, and the youngest.  Their bone structure is much more substantial, while Rock and Doris (Abba’s kids) are taller, leaner, but weigh more than you think!

One month.

I can’t believe it.

I spent five months waiting, planning, and in the span of 30 days, time has flown by.  We have a new routine, new kids to play with.  To laugh at.  To cuddle with.  To wince at when they chew a little too much on your hair…

We expect Xenia to kid soon! She is due on Thursday the 29th.  She’s no where near as big as the other does were this close to birth.  Her udder isn’t nearly as full, but I really do think she’s still pregnant – over the past month her sides have taken on a more rotund dimension.  She’s such a high-stress girl.

All the kids have homes:  Doris will remain with us and become a future milker, Bogart will move in with Donut once he’s old enough for weaning – we plan on him to become a companion as we will eventually have to put Sweet Roll down due to his illness.  Fred and Rock will move in with Donut and be fed out and sold to buyers in North Carolina, co-workers of good friends there. I think I managed to pick the most mischievous buckling to keep for our own pet (he will be castrated shortly).  Bogey’s into anything and everything and often keeps me company while I do chores and clean Huck’s paddock.  He finds great joy and jumping on and off objects.  I love his zest for life.  I love all of the goat’s enthusiasm towards life.  It’s something good to model in our own lives.

We put a deposit down on a buckling this week, and we will go pick him up this summer.  He’s a nicely bred French Alpine with good conformation and bloodlines that overlap very little with our current stock.  I wouldn’t have minded something a little more flashy – a nice wide belt? – but we’re not breeding for color — we’re breeding for quality stock with good conformation, attitudes, and milking ability.

Our cheesemaking is going well.  We’ve had chevre transported up and down the East Coast by friends, who all come back with rave reviews.  Our friends have been known to hoard their chevre.  We’re up to several different flavors: plain, herbs de provence, cracked peppercorn, and the newest – a smokey chipotle.  My co-workers love me, since I regularly bring in cheese to share.   I luckily work with some pretty daring taste-testers, lots of foodie’s in one animal hospital!  We call them our “R&D department” and test run new flavors on them and get feedback on new flavors to try.  Some work, others need some tweaking.  They in turn share it with their friends, and we’re already developing a future customer base.  It’s the life of the party.   Not really.  But close. 😉

My father has surgery tomorrow, so please keep him in your thoughts and prayers.  I’m likely to be gone for another short stint depending on how everything goes.  It’s been a rough week:  last Thursday HB’s mom had her first chemo session at the same time her father was having quadruple bypass surgery.  Everyone is doing well, thankfully.

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Last week, a Charlottesville-area television station had a short segment on local goat dairies.  Included in the spotlight were Night Sky Farm of Brookneal, Caramont Farm of Esmont, Goats R Us of Blackstone, and Iron Rod Chevre of Earlysville.  You can view the clip on the Edible Blue Ridge website.

***

It’s been a very busy week, so I apologize for the lack of updates.  I worked all through the weekend, and on Monday I had the opportunity to spend the day with Jennifer Downey at Night Sky Farm (link above and under the “Favorites” tab).  It was a wonderful, informative day.  I arrived in time to “help” with the morning milking of 13 does and her wonderful Jersey cow, Emily.  Jennifer has a wonderful team of helpers and the milking runs like a well-oiled machine.  While the does were milked, I learned about udder structure and mammary attachment by viewing a variety of udder shapes and sizes.

Once the milking was complete and the machines were cleaned, we headed up to see the “nursery” where all the older kids are kept, ranging from 4 days to several weeks old.  Part of the reason for the trip was to inspect prospective bucklings — HB and I are debating over purchasing our own buck for the upcoming breeding season,  “borrowing” a buck from a friend, taking does to a buck, or investing in artificial insemination (the least likely option).  Jennifer has 2-3 buck kids that have potential AND come from completely unrelated bloodlines from our does.  We just need to decide what we want to do.  And decide quickly!

Once we had played with the kids, we went to the make room where I got to learn a little about her cheesemaking process and pasteurization.  We wrapped up the day with a visit to her bucks and junior herdsires.  The young bucks were really cute – still on the small side, and so curious.  I adore the way bucks seem to have the little tuff of hair on their foreheads.  The buck our Toggenburg, Xenia, is bred to has a big curly forelock.

Let me just say, that while the day was very educational, it was just a lot of fun to see all the goats and watch them interact, soak up some sun in the pasture, and play with the KIDS!

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Today my mother in law had surgery to remove a small growth in her breast.  She was diagnosed just over a month ago, and after a series of tests finally had the tumor removed.  Her surgery went well, and we’re hoping that the pathology reports will come back next week with clean margins.  We spent most of the day at the hospital, but were able to come home and within a few hours HB had put the floor on the goat shed for the hay loft.  I stayed inside to do a few chores and clean the barn a little.

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Last fall HB stumbled upon a cheese magazine entitled Culture.  Two copies were given to him by the owners of a local meat & cheese shop.  At $10/each, this wasn’t a cheap gift.

HB brought the magazines home and we devoured them.  Great articles, beautiful photographs, and delicious cheeses filled every page.  One of the first issues featured Virginia’s own, Pat Elliot and Everona Dairy.

For Christmas my parents gave HB a subscription to the magazine, so imagine our delight this week when I found this in the mailbox –

Culture magaine, spring 2010 issue

It’s a really interesting, beautiful magazine.  A few stores in south central Virginia have begun to stock it as well.  For more information, check out their website.

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It's not Camembert, but what is it?

In November 2009, using the last gallon of milk from Anita, HB attempted to make a goat’s milk Camembert.  Nearly two months later, we decided to try the cheese.  What we had wasn’t Camembert, but rather something much harder.  HB took a sample with us to Caromont to review it with Gail Hobbs-Page, and it was decided that what we had created was something more reminiscent of a an aged Spanish cheese.  Interesting.

The flavor was good, the cheese perhaps a little too hard (think, aged Parmesan), and we had a few air bubbles in the wheels.  HB discussed the cheese with Gail, pulling out his notebook where he writes his cheesemaking notes, and reviewing the process.  It was decided that to make Camembert we needn’t cut the curd, but rather just ladle the curd into the molds.

Cheese making is all about the technique, you know.

Over the end of last week I saved up two gallons of milk from Jacqsonne (about 3 day’s worth of milk) for us to turn into a second attempt of Not Camembert.  The picture above is the following day, after removing the cheese wheels from their molds.  So far, so good.  The wheels are aging away in our converted wine fridge.  It will be interesting to see how these wheels compare to the last attempt!

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Happy Valentine’s Day!

We woke up yesterday morning to more snow falling softly to the ground – it’s amazing the amount of snow we’ve received in central Virginia this year. We did our morning chores while snowflakes chased us around the farm.  Luckily, the Chocolate Challenge was still on, just delayed a little bit.  I filled myself up on chocolate creations, but stopped just on the verge of feeling sick.  I’m not that big of a chocolate fan, but the event is always fun.  We were joined by several friends, which makes it even better.

We decided that rather than spend money out on dinner, we’d cook ourselves something fabulous – so HB pan-seared steaks (from Figgy, our former steer) and I made the Pioneer Woman’s fabulous creamy rosemary potatoes.  The recipe for the potatoes are in the cookbook, but she has a similar herbed potato recipe on her blog.  I could go on and on about those potatoes.  I’m thrilled with the thought of eating them for lunch.  We rounded off dinner with a bottle of one of my favorite red wines, Menage a Trois.  I’m just starting to like reds, and this is an easy-drinking variety.  Dinner was simply fabulous.

We’ve been working on a new batch of chevre.  We’ve modified our method a little and now hang the chevre twice, so the process takes longer but we’re getting a more uniform product.  For this most recent batch, we added herbs before the second hanging – a mixture of herbs de provence (our favorite herb mix) with extra rosemary and a touch of garlic.  The finished product this morning was absolutely dreamy.

I collected two fresh eggs from the nesting box, scrambled them up and added the herb chevre and toasted a few pieces of whole wheat sourdough from the market.  It was a REALLY good breakfast.  No pictures, I ate it too quick. 😉

HB’s taking my horse down to Aiken for what will hope will be the next-to-last ultrasound recheck for his back.  I’m staying here to run the farm and milk Jacqsonne.  So it’s a quiet day; barn chores are caught up, so I’m just planning on doing laundry, some homework,  and perhaps having a movie fest.  I’ve started Pride and Prejudice and plan to follow it up with Marie Antoinette, and then we’ll go from there to see what I have in stock.  By the way, the soundtrack from Maire Antoinette is absolutely, hands down, one of my favorites – not because it’s filled with modern tunes but just amazing, emotional music with some fun thrown in.  And the movie itself is just gorgeous. Swoon. And yes, I really wanted to include Apex Twin’s Avril 14th in my wedding music (but in the end thought it a little too somber).

Here’s to hoping, wherever you are, a wonderful Valentines Day that is full of love and relaxation.

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"This little monkey..."

Our secret to making delicious chevre is using this little monkey to hold the bag while it drains. 😉

But you know what this means, don’t you?

We’re making chevre.

From our own goat’s milk.

That I milked from our own dairy goat.

That would be, the very lovely Jacqsonne.

How cool is that!?!

Of course, we live in a small apartment in the barn, so our space is limited.  Thus, we clean our shower stall, move the curtain rod to the middle (and duh, remove the shower curtain), and hang our bag of curds to drain overnight, or all day, depending on our schedule.  One day, we’ll have a nicer way to do this.  But for now, it works.

And the result?  Delicious, creamy chevre.  I took some to work yesterday to share.  Have I ever told you how much my co-workers love me?  Maybe not so much me, but they love it when I bring in treats like this. 😉

On a side note, Jacqsonne hit a production high yesterday – milking 3.25 pounds of milk.  Her breeder said that with the miscarriage we can likely expect her to hit 75% production, maybe even 100% which would be somewhere in the 12-14 pounds/day range.  Considering we weren’t supposed to be milking her for another month and a half, I’m pretty pleased with how she’s coming along.

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Thanks to the lucky connection of a darling friend, HB and I were able to make a visit to Caromont Farm today.  Back in August, we hosted a “Flavors of Virginia” wine and cheese tasting for my work group and used Caromont’s Farmstead Chevre as our starting course (paired, if you’re curious, with Ablemarle CiderWork’s Ragged Mountain cider) and found it to be deliciously creamy and tangy.  A local restaurant in town carries two of Caromont’s cheeses, and we were excited to have the opportunity to meet their creator, as well as the goats that contribute to its popularity.

Caromont is headed up by Gail Hobbs-Page and her husband Daniel, and runs with the help of a few neighbors and interns.  Let me just say, that I’m jealous of the interns – I would have loved to have spent a semester of college working on a goat dairy.  I still lament that my schedule (chock full with microbiology labs) never allowed me to take that small ruminant  management course!  Gail has been involved in the food industry for over 25 years – most of her early years spent working in a variety of restaurants.  In the past ten years she has found a new calling in life, starting, working, and managing a successful goat dairy.  Over time her cheeses have grown with such success that a handful of restaurants throughout the Southeast carry her products.  Gail is very friendly and approachable, a wealth of knowledge that has been learned through experience, and not afraid to get down and dirty.

But first, let’s talk about the most important part of the farm – the goats!

Gail first began with Nubians, then added La Manchas, and finally a few Alpines to round it out.  While there are a few purebreds in the herd, most of the does are mixtures of the breeds and they are all beautiful.  Goats of every color (and ear shape!) roam her fields and browse in the woods – beautiful tans and browns, black and whites, and a mix of everything in between.  I was particularly smitten with a young doeling with gopher ears, a beautiful copper shade with black and tan markings on her face.   With close to 100 goats total, surely it wouldn’t be noticed if one little doeling came home with me?  haha, I wish.

After meeting the girls, we toured her milking and cheesemaking facility.  A large part of the Caromont philosophy is being good stewards of the Earth, making as little a dent as possible in the environment.  While not elaborate, the facilities  are clean and laid out in a simple, working manner so that everything flows from one room to another.  Committed to tradition, all milk goes from the goats via a simple milking machine into buckets which are then hand carried into the milk room — for the French believe that this is the best way to handle the fragile proteins in goat’s milk.  From the milk room, the milk is carried into the cheese making room where it is pasteurized (if to be made into fresh cheeses) before starting the cheese making process.

Along the way we checked out her goat housing systems – a series of small barns and sheds where the goats are housed and allowed protection from the elements.  A large part of the Caromont herd management goes back to the philosophy that nature knows best – and with that in mind, the goats spend as much time as possible outside, rotating through a series of pastures in an attempt to keep worm burdens low.

After seeing everything, we all stepped inside away from the cold and wind to discuss the trials and tribulations of having goats and making cheese. HB had brought along a sample wheel of what was supposed to be Camembert made from goat’s milk.  As it turned out, it aged over the course of 60 days into a hard cheese (think, Parmesan), and while it has good flavor, it’s definitely NOT a Camembert!  Gail thought it was more reminiscent of a Spanish goat cheese and they discussed ways it could have gone wrong.   Overall our visit was very positive, and we definitely enjoyed meeting Gail and Daniel.  I just want to take things slowly – my biggest fear is that we will get in over our heads too soon and get burnt out.  I am most looking forward to the companionship and management of a herd of does, while HB is more excited over the prospects of future products.  We’re lucky in that we both have interests in different aspects of the farm.  The area in which we live is just starting to embrace a “buy local, support local” mentality, which gives us time to grow and embrace goat dairying if it appears to be our calling.

PS: I wanted to take pictures, but I always feel awkward taking photographs of what is, essentially, another person’s business.  But oh, that doeling, she was so beautiful!

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